Sell Silver · Nationwide, by mail
Sterling flatware, hollowware, silver jewelry and scrap, mailed in with free insured shipping. Solid silver is weighed and priced against the day’s live silver spot — and anything worth more than its metal, a signed maker or a real antique, is valued on the resale market instead. You see the offer in writing before you decide anything.
If it is solid silver, we weigh it. If it is more than solid silver, we say so.
Full services, partial sets, odd pieces and orphaned serving spoons. A complete, matched service by a known maker is usually worth more than its weight.
Tea and coffee services, trays, bowls, candlesticks, pitchers, julep cups. Weighted bases are normal — we account for the filler rather than pretending it is silver.
Chains, cuffs, brooches, rings. Signed silver — Georg Jensen, Tiffany, Native American smiths — is priced on demand, not on the scale.
Dented, bent, monogrammed, missing a lid. Condition does not change melt value, so send it as it is.
800 and 830 European silver, British hallmarked pieces, Russian and Latin American work. We read the marks rather than guessing at the purity.
Silver bullion bars and rounds, .999 and finer. Valued straight against spot — see selling coins and bullion.
Silver is the metal people are most often shortchanged on, because it is easy to weigh a box and quote one number. We do it the other way round: every piece is read before anything is weighed.
1. Solid or plated. First we confirm what is actually silver. Sterling, 925, 950, 900 coin silver, 800 and 830 Continental, British hallmarks — each has a different silver content, and each is priced on its own content, not on a single average.
2. Metal value. Solid silver is weighed and valued against the day’s live silver spot. Weighted candlesticks and reinforced handles contain pitch or plaster, so only the silver in them is counted — anyone quoting you on the full gross weight of a weighted piece is quoting you on plaster.
3. Worth more than its weight. A signed maker, a complete matched flatware service, an antique of real quality, a piece of Native American or Scandinavian design — these sell for multiples of melt. When a piece is worth more whole than melted, we tell you and price it on the resale market. We are jewelers, not a melt shop; the best pieces we buy go into our own collection.
You see both numbers before you decide. Accept, and you are paid the same day by bank transfer. Decline, and everything comes back to you free and fully insured — nothing is melted or altered before you accept in writing.
Two mistakes cost sellers real money, and both are easy to avoid.
Not sure? Do not throw anything out and do not pay to find out. Photograph the marks — usually on the back of a handle, the underside of a base, or inside a rim — and send them to us on WhatsApp. We will tell you honestly whether it is worth shipping.
Send it exactly as you found it. That is the version worth the most.
Tell us what you have. We email a prepaid, fully-insured FedEx label — you pay nothing to ship.
Pack it and drop it off. Insured door to door through IFS (In4Sure), tracked, signature required.
Marks are read first, then solid silver is weighed against live spot. Anything worth more than melt is priced on resale.
Accept and you are paid the same day by bank transfer — or everything ships back free and insured.
Sterling and other solid silver is weighed and priced against the day’s live silver spot. If a piece is worth more than its metal — a signed maker, a complete flatware service, an antique of real quality — it is valued on the resale market instead, and you see both numbers in writing.
Plated pieces marked EPNS, silver plate or A1 have only a microscopic layer of silver over a base metal and carry no recoverable melt value. If you are not sure whether a piece is solid or plated, send a photo of the marks before you ship anything — we will tell you honestly.
No. Tarnish costs you nothing, but polishing an antique or signed piece can wear the surface and soften the marks, and that does cost you money. Send it exactly as it is.
Look for STERLING, 925, 950 or Britannia on American and modern pieces, 800 or 830 on Continental European silver, and 900 on coin silver. British silver uses hallmarks rather than a number. Marks are usually on the back of a handle, the underside of a base, or inside a rim.
Yes. You ship on a prepaid FedEx label backed by dedicated jewelry insurance through IFS (In4Sure) that covers full value door to door, both ways, tracked and signature required.
Everything ships back to you free and fully insured. Nothing is melted or altered before you accept in writing, and the valuation is free whether you sell or not.
Request a free, insured shipping kit — no obligation. See your written offer before you decide.